Bonjour à tous et à toutes,
Despite all of the uncertainty that is universal to the human experience, one thing is sure, and that is the fact that time only moves in one direction: forward. Which is how I’ve found myself both wondering how I could turn the page of my calendar to June, wondering how we all got here, and think to myself, well, yeah, that’s how it goes. You live your life and then all of a sudden, time has flown.
It is wild to reflect on the last couple of months; my first essay for this project — “Sexy, Sparkling and Grotesque”, which you have made one of the most popular thus far! — dropped on April 1st. On that day, I was at LAX, on my way to Paris. As I prepare my next essay, my fifth, I’m packing my trunk to return.
Some of you who are based in the States may be packing your bags for “Euro Summer” — a tradition that has existed as long as pleasure travel between continents has, that has rebranded and shifted shape through the decades. As a child, I experienced “Euro Summer” by default, spending weeks holed up with my family at my grandfather’s château just outside of Antibes, France. It was just as magical and unusual as it sounds, and something I’m writing about for a future essay, so keep an eye out.
My hot take, though, as I head into my life’s 30th summer, is that “LA Summer” is far more agreeable.
Los Angeles blooms in the summertime, perhaps inevitably, for a city whose reputation was literally and figuratively built on its sunny climate, gorgeous populace, and easy-going spirit. Sure, it’s hot, but as they say, it’s a dry heat, and much more preferable to the swamp-like humidity of Le Marais or the Lower East Side (sorry! Not sorry). There’s cultural events aplenty, and much of them are free to the public. Restaurants open their terraces, parks become full with picnics, outdoor film screenings are ubiquitous, and unlike much of Europe, August is lively with activity.
Have you tried to navigate a narrow Parisian sidewalk on an oppressively hot and humid day that makes you feel like you’ve been trapped in a convection oven? Have you tried to gain entry to a museum (for culture and air-conditioning in equal measure) in Berlin, or London, or Rome on an August day, only to find it sold out due to the rest of the continent having finally taken their leave, too? Or — one of the purest summertime miseries I have experienced — have you asked for what you hope to be a refreshing Coca-Cola (with a slice of lemon, non-negotiable) at a café in Nice as you felt your skin slowly roasting, despite its cover of sunscreen, only to receive your beverage served at lukewarm temperature because “We have run out of ice”? I don’t recommend it!
With that said — any opportunity to travel, to experience other cultures, to eat delicious food, and to take in all types of art is always an indicator of a lucky, beautiful life. Regardless of the place, budget, or company present. I remind you to enjoy it to the fullest!
Without further ado, here are a couple of stops I hope you’ll add to your itinerary.
Recommendations, Paris and Nice/Côte d’Azur édition
— The Fondation Azzedine Alaïa is a cluster of buildings in Paris’s 4e that house the namesake brand’s atelier, corporate offices, and flagship boutique. Following the passing of Alaïa in 2017, they have converted part of it into a museum space, which displays exhibitions of his personal — and massive — fashion archive. Just unveiled is the thoughtful presentation of his atelier, which has been perfectly preserved as it was the day he died. Untouched, it looks like he’s just gone out for a quick errand, and is a moving tribute to one of the greatest designers of all time.
— I count among my closest friends the eccentric and passionate graffiti artist, Bip Apollo. Although his often large-scale public works can be found in places as far-flung as Brazil, Russia, and Italy, he can usually be found in San Francisco or Monte-Carlo. Although our paths initially crossed in California, we’ve both gravitated towards the Côte d’Azur in the last year. You can see witty, tongue-in-cheek examples of his work adorning the walls just outside of the Menton SNCF train station, as well as the Romain Laloue Patisserie around the corner.
À la prochaine,
Chloë Helen America Cassens